used jeeps for sale
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Q: How to manage huge customer interest in my used car for sale?
This is long but I think it’s interesting so give it a try:
I’ve got a ‘95 Jeep Cherokee Country 4×4 auto that finally has too many problems to make it economically feasible for me to keep driving. I already bought a replacement car a month ago so the Jeep has been sitting in my driveway.
Major Problems: 1) serious oil and coolant leaks, head gasket related (dealer estimate was @ $2k), cooling system has been sketchy due to the leak, but if closely maintained will run – hotter than normal but not overheat. Oil leak requires refilling every few days, and oil pressure is dodgy due to leaks. White smoke from exhaust. 2) A/C is out, not diagnosed but I wouldn’t be surprised if it is busted, 3) rear brakes need work/replacing.
Minor problems: rust beneath rear passenger door, rear wiper broken, rear driver power lock tempermental, a few cosmetic things.
Frankly if not for the gasket/leaks, I’d just get the brakes fixed and keep driving the car, but given all that’s wrong w/it I posted it as a “mechanics special” – recommending it be used for parts/project, detailing the major problems. It’s got airbags, premium rims, fairly new michelins, good parts. Listed for $500 obo last nite.
WELL – I got ALOT of interest, mostly from mechanics thinking they can fix the gasket and then drive the car. Over 10 inquiries in the 1st 3 hrs, 20+ now.
The first few callers wanted to see the car, so I said I’d show it Saturday. These people said they’d call me Saturday.
A couple people offered me $500 on the spot sight unseen (besides the pics on CL).
Thing is – based on all my talks with the responders to the ad – I honestly think I may well end up getting more than $500 for the car come Saturday – so I am declining the $500 verbal over the phone offers.
Obviously there’s a whole bird in hand v. bird in bush thing here – but a verbal offer over the phone doesn’t mean much either – could be just a ploy to see the car first and not get caught up in a bidding war.
I figure that even if the Saturday showing ends up failing – I figure I have lost nothing by not taking these ‘bird in hand’ verbal offers. If they truly would take the car for $500 sight unseen today, why would they not still do it tomorrow evening? And with all the interest even if Sat. fails I am pretty sure now that I can get $500 for it, either from the people who have already verbally offered or if I post it again I can just accept such an offer on the spot.
Am I doing the right thing? I was caught a little off guard by all the responses but I think the right thing to do is to show the car one day and give myself the opportunity to get a better bid than $500.
Oh- and a scammer replied too – saying he was vacationing in London but would have his assistant send me a moneygram. I replied “cash only inperson sale”
A: That pile ‘o crap is worth $100 to a junkyard.
If someone is offering $500 just sell it already because playing this “bidding war” game will blow up in ur face.
Q: Bought a used car, financing denied, who eat’s the sales tax, title, and licsensing fee?
About three weeks ago I bought a used Jeep, put 2k down, was told I was approved (guaranteed approval even, lol). Anyway, i’ve been driving the thing for three weeks, got a call today saying “Hey the bank turned down your loan, bring us another 2k, a co-signer, or the vehicle by 5pm”
I stalled them for a day, since I had to go to work until after they were closed. I dropped it off tonight, no issue there, I don’t care about taking it back really. My question is, in Ohio, who has to pay the tax, title, and license fees in this kind of situation?
I’ve been told, that Ohio charges sales tax everytime a dealer sells a car, no matter if they get it back like mine or not. In my mind, it was a sale, and return, just like taking something back to the store. I mean, if I return a shirt, I get my sales tax back… I’m hardly naive enough to think that just because I can make a solid argument for my case that that means it is the way I want it to be, lol. Anyway, thanks for the help.
A: I am not going to go into this whole “breach of contract” nonsense again. There is no breach, read the contract, “contingent on lender approval”… Read any of my other threads dealing with this issue…
Since you never legally owned the car, you do not pay any fees – tax, dmv, title, all of it comes back to you. You should getyour down paymetn back and be done with it
Q: Used Jeep Wrangler 2007 price?? and info?
what would be the best price i could get for a used 2007 or 2006 jeep wrangler.
also, what is cheeper the wrangler or the tj?
any feed back on this car would be much appreciated too.
also if anyone knows of any for sale in the calgary area post a link 
thanks guys!
A: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Specifications
GENERAL INFORMATION
Body Style 2-Door Sport Utility
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ENGINE: 3.8-LITER, OHV, 12-VALVE SMPI V-6
Availability Std.
Type and Description Six-cylinder, 60° V-type, liquid-cooled
Displacement 230.5 cu. in. (3778 cu. cm)
Bore x Stroke 3.78 x 3.43 (96 x 87)
Valve System OHV, 12 valves, roller followers, hydraulic lifters
Fuel Injection Sequential, multi-port, electronic
Construction Cast-iron block, aluminum alloy heads
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Power (SAE net) 205 hp (153 kW) @ 5,200 rpm (53.9 hp/L)
Torque (SAE net) 240 lb.-ft. (325 N•m) @ 4,000 rpm
Fuel Recommendation Unleaded regular, 87 octane (R+M)/2
Oil Capacity 6 qt. (5.7L) plus filter
Coolant Capacity 13.36 qt. (12.64L) Std.
__________________________________________________________
Emission Controls
Three-way catalytic converter, heated oxygen sensors, electronic EGR and internal engine features
Meets Tier 2 Bin 5 (federal) and LEV 2 (CA) emission requirements
__________________________________________________________
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Alternator 160A
Battery 600 CCA, maintenance-free
__________________________________________________________
TRANSMISSION: NSG 370—MANUAL, SIX-SPEED OVERDRIVE
Availability Std.— All models
Description Synchronized in all forward gears and reverse,
multi-rail shift system with top-mounted shift lever
Clutch Hydraulic actuation
Gear Ratios
1st 4.46
2nd 2.61
3rd 1.72
4th 1.25
5th 1.00
6th 0.84
Reverse 4.06
Axle Ratio
3.21 Std., 4.10 Opt. (Std. on Rubicon)
Overall Top Gear 2.69 Std., 3.44 Opt. (Std. on Rubicon)
__________________________________________________________
TRANSMISSION: 42RLE—AUTOMATIC, FOUR-SPEED OVERDRIVE
Availability Optional
Description Electronic governor, electronically controlled converter clutch
Gear Ratios
1st 2.84
2nd 1.57
3rd 1.0
4th 0.69
Reverse 2.21
Axle Ratio 4.10
Overall Top Gear 2.83
______________________________________________________
TRANSFER CASE: NV241 COMMAND-TRAC
Type Part-time
Operating Modes 2WD High; 4WD High; Neutral; 4WD Low
Low Range Ratio 2.72:1
Center Differential Type None
__________________________________________________
TRANSFER CASE: NV241OR ROCK-TRAC
Type Part-time
Operating Modes 2WD High; 4WD High; Neutral; 4WD Low
Low Range Ratio 4.0:1
Center Differential Type None
_________________________________________________
DIMENSIONS AND CAPACITIES
General Overall Length 152.8 (3881.1)
Overall Width (without mirrors) 73.7 (1872.0)
Overall Height, Hard top 70.9 (1800.9)/72.3 (1836.4) Rubicon
Wheelbase 95.4 (2423.2)
Track, Front 61.9 (1572.3)
Track, Rear 61.9 (1572.3)
Overhang, Front 26.7 (678.2)
Overhang, Rear 30.6 (777.2)
Maximum Payload (includes occupants and cargo) 1000 lbs. (454 kg)
__________________________________________________
CURB WEIGHT
Wrangler X, Man. Trans. 3760 lbs. (1706 kg)
Wrangler X, Auto. Trans. 3785 lbs. (1717 kg)
Wrangler Sahara, Man. Trans. 3951 lbs. (1792 kg)
Wrangler Sahara, Auto. Trans. 3976 lbs. (1804 kg)
Wrangler Rubicon, Man. Trans. 4104 lbs. (1862 kg)
Wrangler Rubicon, Auto Trans. 4129 lbs. (1873 kg)
___________________________________________________
SUSPENSION
Front
Live axle, leading arms, track bar, coil springs, stabilizer bar,
low-pressure (on 16-inch wheel packages) gas-charged shock absorbers—std.;
Monotube high-pressure (on 17- and 18-inch wheel packages) gas-charged shock absorbers—std.;
Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect System (ASDS) opt.
Rear
Live axle, trailing arms, track bar, coil springs, stabilizer bar,
low-pressure (on 16-inch wheel packages) gas-charged shock absorbers—std.;
Monotube high-pressure (on 17- and 18-inch wheel packages)
gas-charged shock absorbers—std.
_______________________________________________________
Pricing for used:
MSRP: $18,610 – $29,240
Invoice: $17,535 – $26,659
Miles Per Gallon
City: 17 MPG – 18 MPG
Highway: 19 MPG – 22 MPG
______________________________________________________
There is no differences between a “wrangler” and a “TJ” they are the same thing. just FYI.
Q: Who’s responsibility is it to fix defect on a used car? Problem started as soon as we bought it.?
On Tuesday, 11/25 we bought a used Jeep. It’s an 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. When my husband test drove it, he said it seemed like the gas pedal was stiff and that it handled a little funny but the Jeep had been sitting for quite some time since they were asking almost $3000 more than book value. In this economy, that’s not a sale you’ll make.
So we bought it and got it home and noticed a funny smell coming from it. The next night when my husband was driving home from work at 11pm he went to get in and noticed they forgot about the inspection. It said Oct 08. Had we noticed this before, it would have sat until they got it inspected. I called them first thing Friday morning, and asked about the smell and the inspection. They said they had the work done for the inspection and didn’t specify if they forgot about the sticker or the inspection. They then told me what garage to take it to and they would cover the cost of it.
Last night I seem to have pinpointed the smell. We got out and the rear drivers side tire there was something glowing orange inside the wheel well and there was smoke coming from out of there. It is a burning smell.
We have an appointment tomorrow morning, and we want to be sure before we go, who’s responsibility is it to have the brakes taken care of?
It was NOT an as is sale. The sheet in the window that says in large print if it comes with a warranty or as is, Warranty was checked. It comes with a 3 month 4,500 mile warranty. Most other vehicles on their inventory are listed as coming with new inspection and emission.
Also, we live in PA. The lemon laws here only regulate new cars and the exception to the rule is if you buy a new car with the balance of the factory warranty.
A: i would take the jeep back up there tell them to fix it or ill raise hell and threat them that i will sue them if nothing gets did
Q: thinking about buying a jeep cherokee?
i saw a used 88 jeep cherokee for sale for $2500.it has new inline6 engine with 60k miles.what’s really nice is it has 6in. lifted suspension w/ 35 in. tires.my dad thinks it’s a bad idea but idk i want it really bad.any advice on whether it’s worth it or not.i’m not heavily educated on vehicles
A: That’s a pretty good deal, if you think about it. It is an 1988 model so it has lasted a long time. But, if you are thinking about buying it, I would most definately get it checked by a liscensed mechanic because for a jeep to be that cheap with a new engine something is almost garenteed to be wrong with it or something is going to go wrong with it.
Jeeps tend to have a lot of problems with electrical or mechanical parts. Ask to test out the vehical or if you aren’t of age, ask your dad to…check EVERYTHING – turn on/off lights, lock and unlock doors, check it at all speeds, check turn signals and stops. Also, check the MPG, you might find that you don’t want it after you find out the MPG and the price to fill up the tank.
Also, with a lift kit on a jeep I would most definately recommend you take it off if you are new to driving Jeeps. Jeeps tend to be top heavy and are easily flip able and with a lift kit that multiplies the flipablity.
If your dad says that its a bad idea, I would trust your dad’s advice. But, you never know, if you let him drive it around and test it for himself he might change his mind. But remember, if you aren’t used to driving jeeps and you tend to drive recklessly a 6″ lift on it will make the jeep even more dangerous – I would concider taking the lift off and making a tiny profit by selling it.
If you have any more questions, feel free to email me, I know a lot about jeeps. My sources say it all. My email is: aggurl92@yahoo.com
Q: What is covered by implied warranty? A leaking oil pan on a car we bought a week ago with a 30 day warranty?
We bought a used 2005 Jeep. It has a rusted and leaing oil pan. The sales man had told us that if there was anything wrong that they would fix it in the 30 period. We did find something wrong which is a $450 repair! They said it isn’t covered! I have read about implied warranties and was wondering if this would stand up for this situation? We have only had it a week!!!! Other than that it’s a great vehicle.
A: Did you get a vehicle inspection report when you bought the vehicle.
Even used car dealers have an obligation as to the condition of the cars they sell.
In Canada its the Used Car Dealers Association(watchdog for slimy used car dealers)
Check your local government agencies, BBB or even police for advice as to possible threatened legal action.(small claims court)
Plan well but be prepared and informed
Sometimes a threat is all it takes.
Q: What should I pay for a used 2006 Jeep Commander?
I found a Jeep Commander on a local lot for $16,949. It’s a V6 3.7L AWD with 34,151mi. I cannot say that it’s not in excellent condition, but we all know how nice some detailing can make a used car look. There are some minor scratches that I know I can buff out, but I would never admit that to the salesman, lol. The general sales manager is trying to screw us by showing us a blue book for a 2006 Jeep Commander Limited, NOT just a regular 2006 Jeep Commander. I have all of the correct paper work on the vehicle now with a carfax (which checked out clean). The Kelly Blue Book quotes retail in excellent condition at 17,500. I know these guys are screwing around with me, but I’m a pretty informed guy.
What do you think I should be paying for this mid-class SUV? I’m trying to get the guy to around 15,000 (which for 2 straight hours they swore up and down they couldn’t do. Although somehow they swear they can “finnagle” the interest rate on the financing (My mother is signing on it with me, she has amazing credit.)
I want this one, I can’t find it in the same color on any other lot around here. I already did a test drive and ran it through it’s paces. Everything on that end checks out. I just really want to know if I can do better on the price.
A: i would never pay that much you can get something new for that price. And thoes dealers are deff messing with you. Get as much information as you can on the vechile. Try finding a dealer that beat the price even if its not the same vechile, because all dealers wanna be known for their “low prices” Also let them know if they dont meet ur price ur walking, they want to make their money, they’ll eventully come down i think a decent price would be around $14,000
Q: Whats the quickest way to learn auto sales?
Like it or not, I accepted a job for a local car dealership. They have a new manager, and he wants me to eventually do all sales. Right now he does them all. They average about 10-12 cars per month. I am used to selling jewelry, where I know I can discount up to a certain percentage, like 30% tops. This place sells Chevy, Dodge, Chrysler, and Jeep mostly, and is going to increase used car sales. I can sell, but I know NOTHING about selling cars, the dickering, how much to give on a trade in, how much to decrease price, NOTHING. I am told I will get customer to sign an agreement that basically says “we agree to purchase if we can agree terms”. I think the manager then takes over. Is this normal? What advice can anyone give me?
A: You are arms legs and a smile, if you are good at it and keep your eyes and ears open and mouth shut you can work your way up. You might want to ask the manager about training programs such as product walk around, product knowledge and eventually closing.
GOOD LUCK
Q: at the car dealership?
Please help us.
When I bought my Hyundai Accent with a 10.99% interest rate in 2008.
Now, I have a job and my credit score is much higher than before so the Alliance Finance
Company offered me around 4% to refinance my car, the Accent.
The refinance company said to go to the Chrysler dealership and have the
car inspected, so my husband and I went to the dealership on sep 28th, 2010.
We tried to purchase a new car also.
We told the dealership we would come back after the refinance payments were set up.
We almost left there but we talked with a finance officer and he said he could check refinancing
the accent. He found a way to refinance and said why do you guys pay so much money for the car?
You can save your money, but this is with your new purchase. He said if you purchase a new car and put $2000 down payment on your Accent, I can help to refinance your Accent.
So we took $2000 for the down payment. We trusted him without any doubt. Before we started on the paperwork, he said he got off work in 40 minutes. So we were rushed into signing up for everything. We didn’t want him working extra time for us. Later, we calculated it wasn’t saving money. We thought we could cancel the Accent refinance within 72 hours, because of the “cooling off period” laws, but we found out this was not refinancing our car. He was really re-selling us our own car. The car became a used car sale. We only asked to refinance our car.
So we contacted the office but nobody could help us because he wasn’t there on sep 30th. The next morning on Sep, 31, we stopped to the dealership to cancel the Accent finance and they said it was all processed and nothing could be done. The sales manager MR. Bob said he was sorry that
the finance officer should have explained, but he said he couldn’t do anything.
If refinance amount go up, why do people do this? We didn’t have any problem for paying our cars.
However, they lied to us again before went to the dealer ship we checked our old and new finance bank also. Nothing had been processed yet.
Our new purchase Jeep included interest rate price was$41,054.16
after adjusted price $39,926.88
(The finance officer said that is equal the Accent car balance higher but new purchase car balance go down, you don’t lose any money)
adjusted price go down about $1,127.28
the Accent car balance was $ 11793.55
(included interest rate 10.99% $13351.24)
the dealership set up the Accent total $15,711.20 with 5.99%
compare to before $2,359.96 lose
adjusted the new jeep price go down $1,127.28
we still lose our money $1,232.68
(even if we pay $358.71×36months $14,913.56 we would still lose.)
A: Yeah.. never trust any salesperson “without any doubt.”
Did you just roll out of your crib?
And why would you ever pay double digits for a car loan?
Honey.. You seriously need to do your homework before buying anything!!
This.. I’m getting off soon or any passing to a different person.. It’s a pressure sales or scam technique.
If I were you, I’d return the damn Jeep on principle alone for such crumby business ethics..
I would insist that they fix the problem, and threaten to report them to the better business bureau..etc
Q: Is $4000 for a 1999 jeep cherokee too much, 140k miles?
Title says it all – I’m looking at a used Jeep Grand Cherokee, it has 140k miles, but is in cherry shape. One owner, took to dealer service every 4000 miles, carfax and DEALER confirmed work history.
Had car on lift, its spotless, fairly good tires, no signs of leak. Test drove and it was like floating on air. The mileage worries me, but I pulled the tranny fluid and it was nice and pink. Mechanic verifies its sound.
Original sale price was 5k, but he went to 4k, will not go lower.
Thoughts?
Edit: Its a 4 door, and definitely 4×4.
A: That price is a bit to high, you should only be paying $3000 especially with that amount of mileage on it. .
Q: Do I have a good case against the seller of my car?
I bought a used Jeep from a private seller about a month ago. Before buying it I took it to a local mechanic I heard was very good to check it out. He said everything looked good, but that it would need a new catalytic converter before it got inspected. He failed to mention that the seller is responsible to pay for anything the car needs done to pass inspection. My NEW mechanic said that it was probably because if the seller did pay for it, he would take it to a different mechanic and he would lose business.
Anyways, three days after the sale was finalized the car started to stall out repeatedly for no apparent reason. I took it to a different mechanic and he said that the computer in the car was very damaged. There are hammer marks on it showing that the seller had been “tapping” the computer so the car would start up. When I confronted the seller about this he acted completely oblivious. The mechanic sent the computer out to get repaired. I just heard from him today and he said that for the first time in his 34 years of being a mechanic, the computer couldn’t be repaired. It was too damaged. So I have to buy a brand new one. My old mechanic also never managed the computer being damaged.
I bought the car for $2,800 and I have spent nearly $1,300 in repairs. The seller refused to help pay for any of these repairs. I want to take him to court, but I’m not sure how strong of a case I have. I have a paper trail of my whole story as well. I want him to pay for the catalytic converter and the new computer. What are my chances?
A: You bought it from a private seller, that means, unless otherwise stated, there is no warranty it’s an as-is sale. With an as-is sale the seller is not required to disclose or repair any issues with the car.
You mechanic is crazy too. You don’t tap on a computer to get the car started, and “computers” are never repaired anyway, they are replaced.
Unless you have a receipt for the cat from the seller stating that he would replace it, you are out the money. Since the computer thing came up after you picked it up, you are out of luck.
So to answer your first question: No, you not only do not have a good case, you have no case. sorry for the bad news.
Q: Where to find a H.O. 4.7 engine for my Jeep?
So the motor blew in my 2002 Grand Cherokee Overland with only 97k miles. Me along with the Jeep dealership has been trying to search for a new one but it seems like that’s impossible, can anyone give me any advice about two websites that sale rebuilt and used engines..Jasper’s Engines and Everdrive.com Or any other suggestions or advice would be great thanks!
A: Check with Chuck at Titan engines. Or see their ebay listings:
http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/ebay/titan-stroker-on-ebay/
I have one in my off road Jeep and my son has one in his daily driver.
Mike
http://thejeepguru.com
Q: “HELP” 4 or 6 CYLINDER JEEP?
Merry Christmas to all…………………………….
I have found a really nice ‘98 Jeep Wrangler for sale with only 63,000 miles. I really like it. It has a 4 cylinder in it. I have heard pro’s and con’s on the 4 cylinder. I will be using the Jeep for a second vechicle and once in a while on the beach to go surf fishing. I will not be towing anything with the Jeep. I’m 62 years old and will not abuse it.
What do you guys and ladies think??????????????????
A: Jeeps are great. Installing a toneu cover on my 82 cj yesterday. Have the 258 six but dont tow a lot because of the short wheel base. Will pull the jet ski down to the river but only 12 miles on the back road and no high speeds. There is nothing wrong with a 4. I have a toyota truck with a 4 and I will hook up to my 22 ft sailboat and pull on the freeway to my destination. Any motor will be fine as long as you take care of it. Jeeps are fun and you can get many different tops for your enviroment. Here in south louisiana I am still sporting the bimini top for the weather here has been warm. Good luck.
Q: is a 1989 jeep cherokee 4wd , with a 6cylinder a good truck?
I found a used one clean body for sale for $1800 is it worth it ? 140000 miles on it
A: Have it checked out by a mechanic and make sure they do a compression test on the cylinders. Its an older Cherokee so it may have other issues as well. Also, have all the fluids checked for any evidence of water, particularly the diffs.
No matter what Jeep you buy, make sure you have some money for repairs. Older jeeps may be a bargain, but you never know how they were treated or what modifications have been done. $1800 can quickly turn in the $4k if your not careful.
I researched it further and the Peugeot transmissions were in 87 thru 89 YJs, not Cherokees. Please reference the below website for a general reveiw of this series XJs.
Q: jeep compass owners?
we are thinking of buying either a new compass or a new charger, I’d like to find out more from owners about the compass. I don’t see alot of used ones for sale around my area, actually none within 40 miles at the moment, which makes me think the people who have them are holding on to them.
My question was for owners only, not people who think they know about it or think they are jeep historians. I want to know about ride, road noise, normal day to day stuff. Not how well it cam climb rocks, if thats what I was looking for I’d buy an old cj or willies.
A: I drove the Caliber version a couple weeks ago, and my only complaint is the lack of cargo space, unless you fold down the back seats. Other than that, it has plenty of power, and the CVT transmission provides almost an infinite “gear” ratio. They’re quite comfortable, the only thing I would get is the AWD option if were to buy one, but they’re not that bad of a vehicle. The Caliber and Compass are the same vehicle just slightly different cosmetically.
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